Your mastery guide,
included.

This guide is designed for one purpose only: to teach you the gestures no nail drill ever sells without training.

You're holding the reference guide supplied with your PrecisionCore™. This isn't a technical manual — it's a real professional nail care course, condensed into 29 chapters, from your very first gesture to advanced finishing and nail art techniques.

The PrecisionCore™ was engineered to reach up to 45,000 RPM across 45 speed levels, with a 3-petal chuck compatible with the supplied bits, and an aluminium alloy handpiece with heat dissipation. But the machine alone is not enough. A nail drill is a precision instrument; misused, it damages. Properly used, it replaces the salon. This guide is the difference between the two.

How to read this guide

The chapters are designed to be read in order during your first session, then consulted individually as reference. Chapters 02 to 11 form the essential foundation — you should never switch on the drill before reading them. Chapters 17 to 22 are for those who want to go further: shape sculpting, invisible French, nail art.

The SOLAYA™ philosophy

We don't believe in miracle solutions. Beautiful nail drill work rests on four pillars: knowledge of the natural nail, the right bit for the task, the right speed for each gesture, and light, constant pressure. Everything else — shape, finish, longevity — flows from these principles.

Take time to practise the gestures in the air, with no contact, before touching your nails. Your fifth session will be noticeably better than your first. Your twentieth will be at professional level.

What sets PrecisionCore™ apart

Most nail drills on the market offer just a few speed levels with a generic chuck. The PrecisionCore™ gives you 45 speed levels, a 3-petal self-tightening chuck compatible with the supplied bits and their equivalents, and heat dissipation via vents on the aluminium handpiece. These technical choices aren't marketing: they determine what you can do, and what you avoid damaging.

Knowing every part and every control before the first use is non-negotiable.

The PrecisionCore™ consists of two modules connected by a flexible cable: the control unit (the station with screen and battery) and the polishing handpiece (the piece you hold that rotates the bit).

The control unit

The polishing handpiece

Reading the screen at a glance

The screen permanently displays three pieces of information. On the left, the direction of rotation (F = forward, R = reverse). On the right, the speed level from 00 (stopped) to 45 (maximum). On a long press of the Power button, the screen switches to battery display (P00 to P99).

Understanding why 45 speed levels radically change what you can do.

Most consumer nail drills offer just a few speed levels — often labelled "low / medium / high". This crude grading forces you to choose between two compromises: too slow for the task, or too fast for control. This is one of the causes of natural nail damage.

The PrecisionCore™ offers 45 speed levels, readable on screen from 00 (stopped) to 45 (maximum speed of 45,000 RPM). You can adjust speed with the precision of a salon professional — level by level — according to material thickness, your nail sensitivity, or the precise area you are working.

Three recommended usage zones

Here is the framework we recommend to structure your learning:

Why so many levels

The more speed levels you have, the more finely you can adjust your gesture: the right level for the right material, the right thickness to remove, the right step in the protocol. This is the precision salon professionals work with, that 3- or 5-level drills cannot deliver.

Golden rule for your first session

Always start below your estimate. If you think you need a medium level, start lower. Climb gradually until you find the right one. Too slow a speed breaks nothing. Too high can burn or thin the nail in seconds.

The chuck is the mechanical heart of your drill. Misunderstood, it becomes the first source of problems.

The 3-petal chuck (also called three-petal spring lock) is an automatic clamping system found on professional-grade nail drills. Three metal petals under constant pressure clamp the bit shank with calibrated force — enough so it never moves in rotation, but light enough to allow quick changes without tools.

How locking works

Bit compatibility

The 3-petal chuck accepts the 6 metal bits supplied with your PrecisionCore™, the supplied sanding bands, and bits of the same format available separately from nail art retailers.

When to change bit mid-session

You will change bits several times per session — typically 3 to 5 times for a full manicure. At each change: switch the drill completely off (level 00, and unplug the handpiece if needed). The manual states it clearly: cut the power before any bit change. Never try to change a bit on a machine still under power.

Your very first use shapes your confidence in the gesture for every session that follows.

The first charge

Before any first use, plug your PrecisionCore™ into the mains via the supplied Type-C cable and let it charge fully, about 2 hours 30 minutes. The screen will display "P99" when the battery is full. A complete charge before the first session guarantees maximum autonomy and optimal comfort.

First no-load startup

Before any contact with a nail, run a no-load startup:

Fundamental safety

• Never use on a wet or recently soaked nail: slipping risk
• Never use on skin, fingers, joints — only the nail plate
• Never stay more than a few seconds at the same spot without moving the handpiece
• Always keep the screen visible in your field of vision
• Tie back long hair before use
• Never use near flammable products (acetone, polish remover)
• Never use a deformed, bent or broken bit (the manual states this)
• Always stop immediately if any abnormal vibration or noise occurs
• Keep out of reach of children

Understanding your 1,200 mAh battery so you're never out at the wrong moment.

The PrecisionCore™ has a 1,200 mAh lithium-ion battery, certified for approximately 3 hours of use. Full charge time is around 2 hours 30 minutes via the supplied Type-C cable. Actual autonomy varies with the speed used: the higher the speed, the higher the consumption.

Reading the battery level

A long press of 2 to 3 seconds on the ⏻ button shows the battery level as a percentage:

Charging — best practices

• Preferably use the Type-C cable supplied with your PrecisionCore™
• Any standard Type-C cable (5V 1A) works
• Avoid "ultra-fast" chargers not designed for this power level
• Full charge takes about 2 h 30
• Prefer full charges to repeated partial ones
• Don't leave on mains for several days unused

Power bank mode

The side USB port on the control unit (the standard USB port, not the Type-C) is an energy output. You can use it to charge your phone or any other USB device. Handy on the go: the PrecisionCore™ becomes a backup battery.

Extending battery life

Like any lithium battery, the PrecisionCore™ cell gradually wears with charge cycles. To maximise its lifespan:

• Avoid leaving it fully discharged for long periods
• Avoid extreme temperatures (heatwave, freezing)
• Prefer occasional full charges to repeated partial ones
• If you don't plan to use the drill for several weeks, leave it at around 50% charge

If you notice a significant drop in autonomy after only a short time of use, contact SOLAYA Support — they will guide you on next steps.

Working a nail without understanding its structure is like driving without knowing the road.

The nail is not a dead surface. It's a living structure in permanent growth, made of compact keratin produced by a precise zone: the matrix. Knowing the seven elements of the nail tells you where you can work freely, where to be careful, and where you must never touch.

The seven zones of the nail

How much does the nail grow

A healthy adult nail grows on average 3 to 4 mm per month — slightly more in summer, less in winter, faster in young adults, slower after 50. The matrix produces the keratin; the plate "slides" forward at the production rate. A plate damaged at the root takes several months to regrow entirely.

The real thickness of your nail

An adult natural nail is very thin — the equivalent of a thin sheet of cardboard. A drill removes material quickly, even at moderate speed. That's why the rule of never staying more than a few seconds at the same spot exists: irreversible thinning happens fast.

Signs of a non-drillable nail

• Deep vertical ridges or brittleness
• Onycholysis visible — the nail separates from the bed
• Yellow-green discolouration (suspected fungal infection) — consult before drilling
• Plate thinned from previous over-drilling
• Pain or sensitivity to touch
• Recent bleeding around the nail

Thirty seconds of observation before each session prevents most mistakes.

A professional never touches a nail without first analysing it. Before each session, take thirty seconds to observe each of your ten nails, in daylight or under a daylight lamp (chapter 09).

The visual checklist

Quick decision table

When to postpone a session

Postponing is never a loss. A forced session on a fragile nail creates more damage than it corrects. Postpone the full session if:

• More than a few nails show signs of fragility
• You are very tired — precision drops with fatigue
• Lighting is insufficient (no daylight)
• You don't have all your equipment to hand
• You don't have enough time

A good environment halves session time and eliminates most beginner mistakes.

The work surface

Choose a stable surface, at seated elbow height, wide enough to lay out all your equipment without stacking. Place a silicone mat or a folded towel under your hands: it absorbs dust, protects the table, and steadies the arm. Avoid shiny surfaces (glass, mirror) that reflect under direct light.

Lighting — a decisive variable

Work under neutral daylight, 4,000 to 5,000 K. An articulated clip lamp or desk lamp is ideal. Avoid:

• Warm yellow light (bedroom, living room): distorts shades of white and pink
• Cold blue light (above 6,000 K): tires the eyes and creates stray reflections
• Direct sunlight: creates excessive contrasts and hard shadows
• Overhead ceiling light alone: creates cast shadows that mask defects

Ventilation and dust

The drill inevitably projects very fine keratin and gel dust. Without extraction, it settles in your respiratory tract over the long term. Three solutions, from simplest to most professional:

Checklist of equipment for a full session

• PrecisionCore™ charged + handpiece connected
• Supplied metal bits, clean and disinfected (chapter 25)
• New or recent sanding bands (chapter 13)
• Soft dust brush
• Nail file for manual finishing if needed
• Cuticle pusher + wooden orange stick
• Lint-free pads
• Cuticle disinfectant (chlorhexidine or 70° alcohol)
• Cuticle oil (jojoba, vitamin E)
• If applying: gel base coat, colour(s), top coat, suitable primer
• If removing: foil, cotton, pure acetone (alternative method)
• Tissues or clean compresses
• UV/LED lamp if applying gel

A handful of gestures. Master them, and any drill technique becomes accessible.

All drilling techniques — from semi-permanent removal to final polishing and shape sculpting — come down to a small number of fundamental gestures. You learn them in the air, with no contact, or on a false nail, before touching a real nail. Once these gestures are integrated, you can improvise; without them, you will damage systematically.

Horizontal sweep

The bit is held parallel to the plate, at a low angle above the horizontal (never flat, never perpendicular). You sweep from left to right, or the other way, in continuous motion. Pressure comes from the weight of the handpiece alone — you never push.

Use: removing gel layers, thinning an existing application, starting shape work.

Lateral rotation

The bit stays in contact with the nail. You rotate your wrist by a few dozen degrees, pivoting the bit around an imaginary axis at the centre of the nail. The movement is slow and continuous. Pressure is zero — the bit's rotation does the work, not yours.

Use: rounding edges after length setting, sculpting an almond or oval shape.

On-the-spot tamp

You place the bit at the edge of a zone, and make very small circles without moving the handpiece. The drill rotates; your hand barely does. Very brief contacts — a few seconds maximum per point — then you move on by a few millimetres.

Use: precise cuticle work, clearing lateral folds, local polishing.

Longitudinal sweep

Different from horizontal sweep. Here the bit moves from the free edge towards the cuticle (never the other way — that would lift the application). The motion is fast, fluid, like a brushstroke, never passing twice over the same spot in the same direction.

Use: final smoothing of the surface after thinning, buffing before top coat.

Tangential pass

The bit is positioned at a more open angle to the plate, on the lateral edge of the nail. You follow the exact contour of the nail, as if you were drawing its perimeter. The trajectory is slow and precise — you see exactly where the bit passes.

Use: finishing lateral edges, creating a clean transition between nail and skin, reverse French.

The whole craft of nail drilling comes down to three variables. Control them, and you control everything.

Variable 1 — Pressure

Absolute rule: the pressure you exert on the drill must be zero. The machine does its work through rotation, not your force. The only weight allowed is that of the drill itself, gently placed on the nail.

Practical test: place the running drill on the back of your hand (skin, never on the nail this way for the test) — you should feel it without it hurting. That is exactly the pressure you apply to the nail.

Variable 2 — Angle

The angle between the bit and the plate determines what the bit does:

Variable 3 — Speed

The right speed depends on three factors: material hardness, thickness to remove, and your experience level. Here is the general grid recommended by SOLAYA:

For your first sessions, deliberately stay in the lower half of the recommended zone. You'll climb with experience.

The three variables together

A good session is the lightest possible pressure, angle adapted to the gesture, and the minimum speed for the material. If you need to increase pressure, it's because your speed is too low or your bit unsuited. If you're heating the nail, your angle is too perpendicular or your contact time too long. If you're not making progress, it's never because of pressure — it's the bit or the speed that needs review.

Six bits supplied, six families of use. Choosing the right bit is already half the result.

Your PrecisionCore™ is supplied with 6 metal bits selected to cover the needs of a complete manicure. Each bit has a geometry and grit that determine its use. Using a bit for something it wasn't designed for produces, at best, a poor result; at worst, damage.

Recognising bit families

The supplied bits combine several geometries (cone, ball, cylinder, flame, mandrel) in different grits (diamond or tungsten carbide, coarse to fine). Here's how to read a bit before using it:

Reading the grit

On diamond-grit bits, observe the shade:

• Anthracite or black = coarse grit (fast removal, marks the surface more)
• Mid grey = medium grit (versatile, most used)
• Light silver = fine grit (finishing, gentle polishing)

On tungsten carbide bits (with grooves), observe the groove density:

• Wide, spaced grooves = coarse grit (thick material removal)
• Medium tightness grooves = medium grit
• Fine, very dense grooves = fine grit

Golden rule: speed vs bit

The more aggressive the bit geometry (coarse cylinder) or grit, the more you work at a moderate speed to avoid digging. The finer the bit (cone, ball, fine grit), the higher you can go in speed for a clean, fast result. The right reflex: lower speed for a more aggressive bit — counter-intuitive but vital.

Sanding bands are the consumables of your drill. Used well, they deliver the most professional finishes.

Unlike metal bits (reusable), sanding bands are consumables: they wear out and are replaced. Several bands are supplied with your PrecisionCore™. They slip onto the mandrel bit (the slotted metal shaft).

How to install a band

Reading the grit of a band

Sanding bands are distinguished by their grit — the smaller the number (if printed), the coarser the grit. If the grit isn't printed, you can estimate it by sight and touch:

When to replace a band

A band has a limited lifespan. Signs it should be changed:

• Dark colour from dust build-up ("black gum" effect)
• Slipping on the mandrel shaft
• Degraded performance (you need to increase speed or pressure)
• Visible grooves on the nail after passing
• Changed sound (higher-pitched vibration)

In regular personal use, a band typically lasts a few sessions depending on grit and intensity. A band used on pedicure calluses wears faster than one used for light polishing.

Buying replacement bands

Sanding bands are sold in the standard nail art format in any good specialist store. Prefer professional brands to no-name brands: they wear less quickly, create less dust, and guarantee a more consistent result.

The F/R button isn't a gimmick. It's what sets a professional drill apart from a toy.

The PrecisionCore™ lets you reverse the rotation direction by pressing the Power button: F (Forward) or R (Reverse). This feature is essential for two reasons: which hand you're working on, and where the dust goes.

F — forward

In F, the bit rotates clockwise (viewed from the tip). It's the "default" mode — used in most situations. Dust is ejected to the right of the bit (right side of your wrist).

R — reverse

In R, the bit rotates anticlockwise. Dust is ejected to the left of the bit. R mode is used in several precise cases:

The right-direction test

If you're working and dust flies into your face, you're in the wrong direction. Reverse. If the bit pulls your finger towards it (grabbing sensation), you're in the wrong direction. Reverse.

Practising reversal

Pro tips

• On the right hand, alternate F (left side of the nail) and R (right side) to keep dust ejecting outward
• For a reverse French manicure: start in F on the right lunula, switch to R for the left lunula
• On very thick nails: alternate F-R-F-R in short passes — alternation prevents local overheating

Step-by-step removal — the technique that separates pro from amateur.

Removing semi-permanent polish (gel polish) with a drill is the professional method — faster than the acetone method, gentler on the natural nail, and the only technique applicable to hybrid and builder gel. It's the most frequent session.

Prior diagnosis

Before starting, check the current state of the application:

• Visible lift-offs? — Note the zones (chapter 27)
• Thickness? — Thin or thick
• Type of colour? — Dark pigmented needs more speed, pale less
• Top coat with or without glitter? — Glitter dulls the bit faster

8-step protocol

Average time per nail

A full session (10 nails) takes between fifteen and thirty minutes depending on your level and the complexity of the application.

Thick materials require a three-phase strategy: volume, transition, precision.

Builder gel, acrylic and dip powder have a much greater application thickness than standard semi-permanent. Removing them requires a structured approach to avoid overheating and wasted time. Three phases: volume removal, transition thinning, precision finishing.

Phase 1 — Volume removal

Straight cylinder OR coarse-grit sanding band. Speed in the upper middle third. Horizontal sweep, alternating F/R to prevent local overheating. You remove the bulk of the material, without seeking precision.

• Work in short passes (a few seconds) per zone
• Brief pause between passes to let it cool
• Reverse F-R regularly to redistribute heat
• Constant monitoring: if you feel heat in the finger, stop

Phase 2 — Transition thinning

You still see a layer of gel/acrylic, but it becomes translucent. Time to switch tools:

• Move to a finer-grit bit OR a medium-grit band
• Drop to moderate speed
• More controlled gesture, slower motion
• Watch for the appearance of base coat (translucent) or natural nail

Phase 3 — Precision finishing

Same as the semi-permanent protocol (chapter 15): fine cylinder bit OR fine-grit band, low speed, light longitudinal sweep.

Material-specific notes

Builder gel

Builder is softer than acrylic. It comes off well in flakes when worked at the right level. If you get a very fine powder, your speed is probably too high — drop down.

Acrylic

Dense, hard, sometimes yellowed. Requires a higher level. For very old acrylic, you can weaken the surface with a few drops of acetone, wait a minute, then drill normally.

Dip powder

Intermediate compound between gel and acrylic. More crumbly. Breaks down into powder as soon as moderate speed. Work in very short passes with dust removal between each.

Average times

Five classic shapes, five precise techniques. The drill sculpts what the file cannot reach.

The drill lets you sculpt shapes no manual file can produce with the same regularity — especially for long or very long nails where the cutting angle must be uniform across all fingers. Five main shapes cover the bulk of requests.

Shape 1 — Square

Straight free edge, 90° corners. Classic 80s-90s style, back in force.

• Bit: fine cylinder
• Speed: low to moderate
• Gesture: horizontal sweep on the free edge, in strictly horizontal motion
• Angle: perpendicular to the free edge (the rare case where perpendicular is OK because you're working the free edge, not the plate)
• Tip: keep the finger perfectly flat under the drill to avoid unwanted rounding

Shape 2 — Squoval (rounded square)

Straight free edge, slightly rounded corners. The most versatile and resistant shape.

• Start with a perfect square shape (shape 1)
• Bit: fine cone
• Speed: low
• Gesture: tangential pass on the two corners only
• Make a few very short passes on each corner, rounding progressively

Shape 3 — Almond

Pointed but rounded-tip free edge, elegant and feminine. Ideal for slim hands.

• Pre-set length in a short square with fine cylinder bit
• Main bit: fine cone
• Speed: low to moderate
• Gesture: lateral rotation starting from the middle of the free edge towards the sides
• Symmetrical work is essential — compare both nails by alternating your gaze

Shape 4 — Stiletto

Very pointed free edge. Spectacular. Reserved for very long nails and a sufficiently thick plate.

• Minimum length well beyond the natural free edge — necessarily requires a gel or acrylic application
• Bit: flame
• Speed: moderate
• Gesture: lateral rotation from the free edge towards the tip
• The point's tip must not be too thin, otherwise it breaks within hours

Shape 5 — Coffin / Ballerina

Free edge cut straight like a square, but with straight flanks converging towards the free edge. Very trendy.

• Bit: fine cylinder then flame
• Speed: moderate
• Step 1: length setting in standard square
• Step 2: with the flame, bevel the flanks in convergence from nail bed to free edge
• Ideal ratio: free-edge length about two-thirds of the nail bed width

Measuring symmetry

Place both hands side by side on a flat surface, palms down. Look from above. All nails should form a harmonious gradient: index shorter than middle finger shorter than ring finger, etc. If a nail sticks out or recedes from the natural pattern, retouch.

The most delicate zone — and the most poorly mastered by beginners.

The cuticle is the fine skin that borders the nail at the base. Its role is biological: a protective barrier against fungal and bacterial infections at the matrix. Cutting it opens the door to pathogens. Pushing it back is the legitimate goal.

Distinguishing cuticle and eponychium

Cuticle safety protocol

The 4 zones to NEVER touch

• The cuticle skin above the lunula (the living finger skin)
• The lateral folds (between nail and side skin)
• The hyponychium (under the free edge)
• Any irritated zone, redness, or sign of infection (yellow, green, swelling)

The « glass » effect of a salon is built by stacking finishing passes with the drill, in under two minutes.

High-shine polishing — that "polished glass" effect that reflects light — is the culmination of any manicure. It's obtained without top coat, purely by mechanical finishing of the natural nail or gel application. Three successive steps, in strict order.

Phase 1 — Surface preparation

Goal: remove all micro-grooves from the previous finish (file, removed semi-permanent, thinned builder gel).

• Bit: fine cylinder OR fine-grit sanding band
• Speed: low
• Gesture: horizontal sweep across the whole surface
• Result at this stage: uniform matte surface, no shine or local reflection

Phase 2 — Primary polishing

Goal: create the first level of shine through very fine smoothing.

• Accessory: fine-foam buffer block (sold separately at nail art stores) mounted on the mandrel
• Speed: very low
• Gesture: light longitudinal sweep — free edge to cuticle, no repeats
• You see the surface become satin, like lightly polished glass

Phase 3 — High-shine finishing

Goal: maximum shine.

• Accessory: felt buffer + specialised nail polish paste (sold separately at nail art stores)
• Speed: very low
• Gesture: longitudinal sweep with very slow motion
• You literally see the reflection of a lamp or window in the nail

The reflection test

Hold your hand near a light source (lamp, bright window). Tilt the wrist until you see the reflection of the source in the nail. Several quality levels are possible:

Duration and frequency

High-shine polishing lasts a few days on natural nail — it gradually fades with contact (water, soap, household work). On gel application, it lasts the whole duration of the application. It's done at the start or end of a session, never between gel layers.

The invisible technique — the mark of a real pro. Perfectly clean white edge, no band.

French manicure with the drill is done in two stages: delineation and finishing. The professional technique avoids the precision brush entirely (a source of tremor) in favour of bits that draw the line by subtraction. Result: a perfectly regular French across all fingers.

Method 1 — Traditional French (white free edge)

Method 2 — Reverse French (coloured cuticle edge)

A very trendy variant: the base of the nail is coloured, the rest is nude. The drill lets you draw the coloured lunula with precision impossible with a brush.

• Apply the colour across the whole surface
• Cure
• Bit: diamond ball, low speed
• Gesture: reverse tangential pass — follow the lunula contour
• Remove the colour everywhere EXCEPT in the half-moon lunula

Method 3 — Offset smile line

The smile line (the white curve of classic French) can be positioned at different levels for varied effects:

Testing your smile line

A successful smile line has: same height on both sides, regular curve with no angle, uniform thickness along its full length, clear contrast between the two zones. If any of these qualities is missing, retouch before curing the final layer.

Foot skin is thicker, the nail harder. The PrecisionCore™ adapts if you change your parameters.

Toenails and foot skin are radically different from hands. The PrecisionCore™ is perfectly suited to pedicure, provided you modify speeds, bits and usage duration. A full pedicure usually takes between forty minutes and an hour.

Why feet are different

Full pedicure protocol

Step 1 — Foot bath

Soak both feet in lukewarm soapy water for about ten minutes. Softens nail keratin and calluses. Dry completely before drilling.

Step 2 — Cutting and shaping nails

• First cut with clippers (dedicated foot nail clippers) — don't drill an overly long nail, you'd heat it too much
• Recommended shape: squoval only — almond or stiletto on feet is biologically unsuitable (encourages ingrown nail)
• Bit: fine cylinder OR medium-grit band
• Speed: middle third (higher than on hand)
• Gesture: horizontal sweep

Step 3 — Callus work

• Bit: mandrel with coarse-grit band
• Speed: upper middle third to upper third
• Gesture: horizontal sweep in long passes
• Zones to treat: heel, plantar pad, outer edge of big toe
• Work in short passes with brief pauses

Step 4 — Foot cuticle work

Same as hand protocol (chapter 18), but slightly higher speed is allowed (foot skin is less sensitive).

Step 5 — Polishing and finishing

Same as hand polishing (chapter 19), speed adapted to nail thickness.

Step 6 — Post-session hydration

Generous application of foot moisturiser. Massage a few minutes. Wear cotton socks to help absorption.

Ingrown nail — the absolute prohibition

If you show a sign of ingrown nail (redness at the corner, pain, discharge): DO NOT DRILL. Consult a podiatrist or dermatologist. Drilling would make it worse. The PrecisionCore™ does not treat ingrown nails — it can prevent, never cure.

The drill isn't just a removal tool. It also sculpts creative reliefs invisible with other tools.

Beyond removal and polishing, the PrecisionCore™ is a creative tool for achieving relief and texture effects impossible otherwise. Three advanced techniques that distinguish nail artists.

Technique 1 — Embossing

Creating patterns in relief in a thick gel application, by selective removal. Inverted 3D effect.

• Prior application: transparent or pale builder gel, sufficient thickness
• Bit: fine cone or flame
• Speed: low
• Gesture: on-the-spot tamp in very small contiguous dots
• Work from a reference photo or a pre-traced gel pencil line

Example patterns: initials, stars, stylised flowers, geometries. After embossing, you can fill the hollows with a coloured gel and cure — a "inlay" effect at very high level.

Technique 2 — Material gradient

Creating a thickness gradient in an application, giving a 3D shadow effect when colour goes over.

• Prior application: uniform thick builder gel
• Bit: medium-grit band
• Speed: low to moderate
• Gesture: horizontal sweep with increasing pressure from one side to the other
• You progressively thin the application on one side

Once colour is applied on top, variable thickness creates natural shade variation. "Shadow" effect without a brush.

Technique 3 — Brushed texture

Creating a matte fine-stripe textured surface, brushed metal look.

• Prior application: cured top coat, standard smooth surface
• Bit: mandrel + fine-grit band
• Speed: very low
• Gesture: longitudinal sweep in one direction, never back and forth
• All grooves go in the same direction — that's what creates the brushed effect

The effect is visible in all lights and shifts with angle. Very luxurious on dark or metallic colours.

Combined techniques

The three techniques combine: a material gradient + an embossing + a brushed finish creates designs no nail artist with a file can produce. That's the territory of nail art competitions.

A structured routine month by month for always-impeccable nails with no fatigue or damage.

Regular use of the PrecisionCore™ gives the best results — provided you respect cycles that let the natural nail regenerate. Here is the planning recommended by SOLAYA for sustained use without weakening.

Weekly schedule

Monthly schedule

Over a monthly cycle, you should ideally do:

• One full session (removal + re-application) every 3-4 weeks
• One polishing-only session between two applications
• Daily cuticle oil every evening
• Hand cream several times a day

Annual schedule — rest weeks

The natural nail needs to breathe. Schedule a few full weeks per year with no gel application. Ideally:

• One week in January (after the festive season — rest)
• One week in July (summer holidays — few occasions where the application matters)
• One week in November (winter prep)

During these rest weeks: cuticle oil twice a day, strengthening base coat only, no gel. Your nails regain natural suppleness and shine.

Seasonal schedule

Cadence and fatigue

Never do two full sessions 24 hours apart. The natural nail needs at least a few days between two removal-application cycles. For urgent needs (broken nail, event), do a targeted retouch on the affected nail, not a full session.

A well-maintained drill lasts for years. Poorly maintained, far less.

The PrecisionCore™ is designed to last. But without regular maintenance, even the best machine wears prematurely. Here are the routines to integrate.

After each session

Weekly

• Clean the handpiece vents with a toothpick (dislodge embedded dust)
• Visually inspect the chuck: no dust or debris in the petals
• Inspect the handpiece-to-unit cable: no wear marks or kinks
• Inspect the Type-C cable: clean connector, no deformation
• Full charge if battery is below half

Monthly

• Disinfect the unit with an alcohol wipe (except the LCD screen)
• Check chuck precision: a new bit should hold with no vibration
• Test each direction (F + R) at different speeds
• Test power bank mode: connect a phone, check charging

Periodic inspection

• Full disassembly (handpiece unplugged, bit removed)
• Deep cleaning of each piece
• Inspect the handpiece-unit connector (no oxidation)
• Thorough test: stable speed, no vibration, normal sound

If something stops working properly

If you notice a drop in performance — autonomy dropping sharply, abnormal vibrations, flickering screen, unresponsive button — contact SOLAYA Support. The next steps will be advised based on the diagnosis.

General precautions

• Avoid immersion in any liquid (water, polish remover, alcohol)
• Avoid drops
• Do not open the unit yourself
• Preferably use the supplied Type-C cable
• Avoid extreme temperatures (heatwave, prolonged freezing)

After-sales service

For any maintenance question, fault, or suspected defect, contact SOLAYA Support — rapid response on working days and weekends. The warranty conditions applicable to your PrecisionCore™ are detailed in your purchase documentation.

Bits contain keratin, micro-debris, and potentially micro-organisms. Their hygiene is not optional.

The metal bits of your PrecisionCore™ come into contact with your nail and sometimes (accidentally) with your skin. With each use, they accumulate keratin, gel residue, and potentially micro-organisms (bacteria, fungi, viruses). In strictly personal use, the infection risk is limited — but no one is immune to a self-induced infection through hygiene negligence.

Hygiene levels

In-session cleaning protocol

Between each nail, dip the bit a few seconds in a small cup of soapy water, brush with a soft toothbrush (reserved for this use), rinse with clean water, dry with microfibre. A few seconds are enough. This prevents keratin migration from one nail to another.

Post-session disinfection protocol

Sterilisation (advanced option)

For salon level, two options exist in addition to alcohol disinfection:

• UV-C steriliser: enclosure with UV-C lamp that destroys bacterial DNA. Short cycle. Limits: doesn't penetrate matter (unexposed zones aren't sterilised).
• Autoclave: sterilisation by humid heat under pressure. Hospital standard. Longer cycle but total.

Disinfecting sanding bands

Sanding bands are consumables. They don't disinfect effectively (porous material). In strictly personal individual use, discard after a few uses. Never share.

Storing disinfected bits

Ideal: hermetic box with individual compartment per bit. In a common box, bits contaminate each other.

If something doesn't work, your answer is probably in this chapter.

Mechanical problems

The bit vibrates sideways

Chuck not properly locked. Switch off, open the chuck, re-insert the bit to the stop, re-lock. If the problem persists with another bit, contact Support.

The bit heats up fast

Three possible causes: speed too high for the task (drop down), excessive pressure (lighten up), or clogged bit (clean). Also check the vents — if obstructed, the handpiece heats.

Rotation stops with no reason

Possibly an internal safety after prolonged intense use. Let the machine cool a few minutes before resuming. Check you're not forcing continuously without pauses.

The chuck no longer opens

Often blocked by dust build-up. Spray compressed air into the mechanism. If still blocked, briefly soak the handpiece tip in 70° alcohol then blow.

The screen flickers or shows nonsense

Battery nearly empty or software issue. Plug in to charge. If it persists: switch off completely (dial to 00 + unplug handpiece), reconnect after a minute.

The Power button no longer responds

Often: too brief a press. F/R reversal needs a firm press. If still nothing: switch off completely, switch back on. If still nothing: Support.

Abnormal noise at certain speeds

Possibly a mechanical resonance at a precise level that goes away by changing slightly. If grave constant noise: contact Support.

The handpiece pulls or pushes during use

Wrong rotation direction. Reverse F/R depending on the nail side (chapter 14).

Electronic problems

Charging doesn't start

Faulty Type-C cable. Test with another cable. Check the LED indicator if present. If still nothing: faulty mains adapter.

Battery drains very fast

Several causes: ageing cell, habitual incomplete recharging, very high-speed use continuously. Do a full discharge-recharge cycle. If no improvement, contact Support.

Power bank doesn't work

Conditions: drill at 00 (on but zero speed) + battery sufficiently charged. If conditions met and still nothing: faulty USB cable.

The screen stays off

Battery totally flat. Plug in and wait a few minutes — the screen will come back when the battery has charged a little.

R direction doesn't activate

Faulty button. Reset: drill to 00 + unplug handpiece + wait a moment + reconnect.

Unstable speed

Battery probably low. At low charge, motor torque can drop. Recharge.

Result problems

Nail heats up during session

Speed too high OR contact time too long. Drop the speed, do very short passes, alternate F/R.

Surface doesn't become matte after drilling

Wrong or worn bit. Change bit. Also check your angle (low for polishing).

Dust flies everywhere

You're working in the wrong direction. Reverse F/R. Also: excessive ventilation (close or re-orient the fan).

The bit glides without grabbing

The bit is worn or the speed too low for the hardness. Increase speed or switch bit to a coarser grit.

I accidentally thinned a nail

Immediate STOP. Stop the full session. Apply cuticle oil. No gel application for several weeks minimum. Return to strict prior diagnosis protocol (chapter 08).

I lightly touched the skin

Check if there's a cut. If yes: chlorhexidine disinfection, plaster, no application on this area for 48 hours. If no: cuticle oil and continue carefully.

The French isn't symmetrical

Reprise impossible without removing everything. At best: retouch the most divergent nail by extending or shortening the smile line to match the others.

The application lifts off after a few days

Nail prep issue, not drill. Read chapter 09: full matte surface, perfect degreasing, suitable primer, sealed free edge.

Nails break when I drill

They were already fragile. Do a few weeks of gel break + daily oil. On resuming, stay at low speed and use only the fine band.

I don't know what speed to use

See chapter 11 table. When in doubt: start low, climb gradually. You can't go wrong by going too slowly.

Final result matte when I wanted shiny

Final polishing not done. Resume with fine band + felt buffer per chapter 19 protocol.

Learning from others' mistakes costs less than learning from your own.

Mistake 01 — Working at 90° on the nail

A perpendicular bit concentrates all friction on a tiny point. You cut through the plate in seconds. Always work at a low to medium angle.

Mistake 02 — Pressing hard to go faster

Pressure multiplies heat. Not more efficient, just more dangerous. Rotation does the work, never pressure.

Mistake 03 — Staying too long at the same spot

Contact time creates heat. A few seconds max per zone. If you must insist, it's the bit or speed that needs changing.

Mistake 04 — Drilling over a lift-off without removing it first

Drilling over a lift-off (peeled zone) creates repeated micro-traumas on the natural nail underneath. Always remove the lifted zone first (cut if needed) before drilling.

Mistake 05 — Using a dirty bit

A bit loaded with keratin no longer grabs correctly, slips, heats. You increase speed to compensate — vicious circle. Clean the bit between each nail.

Mistake 06 — Working without watching the screen

You think you're at one speed but you're at another. Actual speed may be totally different from what you think. Check the screen regularly.

Mistake 07 — Not testing no-load before drilling

Improperly locked bit = lateral vibration = nail marked from first contact. Always a few seconds of no-load test before the first nail of the session.

Mistake 08 — Touching the living cuticle skin

Immediate bleeding, infection risk. The cuticle is PUSHED BACK manually, you drill the DEAD eponychium (chapter 18).

Mistake 09 — Using the mandrel without a band

The bare metal shaft on the nail = material tearing. Always a band in place, or the appropriate metal bit.

Mistake 10 — Working the cuticle at high speed

Cuticle = low speed maximum. Beyond, you touch the living skin before realising. Fast speed makes the gesture imprecise.

Mistake 11 — Drilling a wet nail

Moisture makes things slip, the bit skids, you lose control. Dry fully after bath or soak before touching the drill.

Mistake 12 — Skipping nail prep before re-application

Neglected nail prep = application that lifts in a few days. Drilling is only part of the process. Dehydrator and primer are equally essential.

Mistake 13 — Wanting to remove everything in one pass

A thick application doesn't come off in seconds. Multiply short passes with pauses. Better: many short passes than one long one.

Mistake 14 — Working while tired

Precision demands attention. When tired, your hand-eye coordination drops sharply. Postpone the session.

Mistake 15 — No adapted lighting

Without daylight, you don't see the colour nuances on the nail. You cut through base coat without realising. Invest in a good lamp — it's the most cost-effective purchase for your results.

Mistake 16 — Using the drill while charging

The manual explicitly forbids it. The drill must not be used while it is charging. Start with a full battery and use unplugged.

Mistake 17 — Leaving the chuck tightened empty

The manual specifies it: don't leave the chuck closed without a bit for long periods. The petals deform and clamping becomes imprecise. Keep a bit in place or open the chuck for long storage.

The questions no one asks out loud but everyone wonders about.

Q: Can I use the PrecisionCore™ every day?

Technically yes, biologically no. The machine handles daily use, but your nails need rest. Two to three times a week is the optimum — for the equipment as for you.

Q: What's the difference between F and R, beyond direction?

None other. Same torque, same speed, same precision. R direction is only used to adapt dust ejection and reverse comfort between right and left hand (chapter 14).

Q: Can I drill a false nail already applied on the natural nail?

Yes — that's the most frequent case. You NEVER drill the natural nail directly (except light polishing), you drill the application material covering it.

Q: How long to become good?

First session: quite long, fair result. Fifth session: much faster, better result. Fifteenth session: solid mastery. The learning curve is steep in the first few sessions.

Q: Can I drill during pregnancy?

Yes, no contraindication. Work under ventilation to avoid inhaling dust. Avoid acetones for removals during the first three months if you're sensitive to odours.

Q: Should I always wear a mask?

Recommended for regular use. A surgical mask is enough. Particularly for pedicure where dust quantity is greater.

Q: Can I use bits from other brands?

Yes, bits of the same format as those supplied with your PrecisionCore™ are compatible. Avoid bits of dubious quality — breakage risk in rotation.

Q: Can the PrecisionCore™ damage my nails long-term?

Misused, yes — like any tool. Properly used (following this guide), it damages LESS than a manual file, because it allows more precision and control. Pro nail techs have nails in better state than average — not the opposite.

Q: Can I take the drill on a plane?

Depends on the airline. Devices with integrated lithium battery are generally accepted in cabin but sometimes refused in hold. Check with your airline before departure.

Q: My nails are very thin. Can I use the drill?

Yes but: low speed only, fine band only, no aggressive polishing, daily cuticle oil. Avoid gel applications for a few weeks to let it thicken. Your first results will be less perfect — that's normal and temporary.

Q: Does the drill make nails grow faster?

Indirectly, yes. Cuticle massages and daily oil (recommended in post-session routine) stimulate microcirculation and growth.

Q: Can I use it on tip-style false nails?

Yes, perfect. The PrecisionCore™ is ideal for preparing a tip (drilling the back so it follows your natural nail curve) and for shaping once applied.

Q: My wrists hurt after the session, is that normal?

No. You're holding the handpiece too tight. The handpiece is held like a pen, light fingers. If you grip hard, you tire the forearm muscles. Relax the grip.

Q: Can I work in cold?

Lithium batteries lose autonomy in cold weather. Work in a temperate room. Also avoid excessive heat which degrades the cell long-term.

Q: Can I use the PrecisionCore™ while it's charging?

No. The manual forbids it explicitly. The drill is not used while charging. Start your sessions with a full battery.

Q: Can my PrecisionCore™ serve other purposes?

Theoretically yes, but we discourage it. Contaminants from other uses embed in the chuck and alter hygiene for your nails. One use = one function.

Q: What happens if I leave the chuck tightened with no bit?

The manual specifies that the petals progressively deform. Always keep a bit in place during storage, or store the machine immediately after removing the bit.

Pro vocabulary summarised + the checklist to print and laminate.

Glossary — key terms

Ultimate checklist

Before each session

• Battery sufficiently charged
• Disinfected bit in place and locked
• Quick no-load test — no vibration
• Daylight lighting in place
• Stable surface, mat or towel
• All consumables within reach (bands, brush, oil)
• Hydration done (cuticle oil the night before)
• Visual diagnosis of the ten nails (chapter 08)

During the session — the 3 questions

• Am I pressing? — No
• Is my angle correct? — Low to medium
• Am I at the right speed? — Chapter 11 table consulted

Absolute limits

• No more than a few seconds at the same spot
• No overly long session without breaks
• No high speed for beginners without progressive experience
• No contact with living cuticle or skin
• No perpendicular angle (90°) on the plate
• No use while charging

After each session

• Switch off dial to 00 and unplug handpiece
• Remove bit, disinfect (70° alcohol)
• Brush + blow out vents
• Wipe unit with microfibre
• Store in closed case
• Charge if battery low
• Log session in notebook (speeds, bits, duration, result)
• Apply cuticle oil to all ten nails