Your mastery guide,
complimentary.

This guide exists because the real difference between a manicure that lasts 4 weeks and one that chips in 5 days isn't just about the product — it comes down to method. We wanted to put into words what professionals know — what brands assume you already understand — and what no one takes the time to really explain.

LumiCore™ is not just any lamp. Its 36 dual UV/LED diodes arranged in a 360° arc represent a genuine technological difference — but technology only does half the work. The other half is you. And that's exactly what you're going to learn here.

This guide reads straight through for a first discovery, or chapter by chapter based on what you need right now. Keep it accessible — it will become your reference before every manicure.

UV, LED or dual-spectrum — what's the difference?

Traditional UV lamps emit a broad range of wavelengths (320–400 nm). They catalyze nearly all existing gels but generate more heat, consume more energy, and their tubes wear out in 3 to 6 months.

Pure LED lamps emit light concentrated on precise wavelengths (365–405 nm). They are faster and more durable, but unable to polymerize certain older gels formulated for UV.

LumiCore™ is dual-spectrum: it combines UV (365 nm ± 40 nm) and LED (395 nm ± 5 nm) in the same 36 diodes. Result: complete compatibility with all gels on the market, optimal curing time, and no compromises.

108W of peak power — why it changes everything

A standard lamp on the market delivers 24 to 36W. LumiCore™ reaches 108W of peak power — three times more. In practice, this power guarantees complete polymerization to the core of the gel, even for thicker layers or highly pigmented colors. This is what makes 4-week wear possible with the right techniques: the lamp does its job thoroughly.

Why 36 diodes in a 360° arc?

A standard lamp with 4 diodes creates shadow zones on the sides and at the free edge of the nail. These under-polymerized areas are the starting point for 90% of peeling. LumiCore™'s 360° architecture guarantees uniform irradiance on every surface of the nail simultaneously — base, sides, free edge — in a single exposure.

Polymerization: what happens inside the gel

A UV/LED gel is composed of monomers and oligomers held in suspension by photo-initiators. When UV/LED photons strike these photo-initiators, they trigger a chain reaction (radical polymerization) that transforms the liquid gel into a solid cross-linked network. Incomplete polymerization leaves free monomers — a source of allergies, brittleness, and peeling.

Lighting

Work under natural white or cool light (5,000–6,500 K). Warm-toned bulbs distort color perception and make excess gel at the edges invisible. A directional LED desk lamp positioned at 45° above your hand is ideal.

The Work Surface

A clean, flat, and non-porous surface. A dedicated silicone nail art mat is perfect—it protects your table from acetone and gel stains, and cleans in seconds.

Ventilation

UV/LED gels release trace amounts of monomer vapors during application. This is not dangerous for occasional use, but a well-ventilated room is recommended. An open window is sufficient.

Recommended Tools (Beyond LumiCore™)

• Nail file 100/180 grit (shaping) + buffer 220/280 grit (surface)
• Cuticle pusher in orange wood or metal
• Dehydrator (degreaser) and primer (acid-free recommended for beginners)
• Base coat, gel colors, top coat
• Lint-free wipes + pure acetone (removal) or cleanser (surface cleaning)
• Toothpick or nail art brush for edge corrections
• Cuticle oil (post-application and daily maintenance)

Nail prep is the most underestimated part of any gel application. All professionals agree: 80% of adhesion problems stem from insufficient prep. Take this chapter seriously.

LumiCore™ features 4 pre-calibrated timers for each application step. Using the correct mode isn't a preference — it's essential for proper curing.

Special Cases

• Highly pigmented colors (red, black, navy): switch to 120s mode even for color — pigment absorbs light and slows curing.
• Rubber base gels: always 90s minimum, 120s mode recommended for complete cross-linking. These flexible formulas remain tacky if under-cured.
• Double color layer: cure each layer separately. Never layer two fresh coats on top of each other.
• Top coat for maximum durability: favor 90s mode even for classic top coats — the final durability of your manicure depends on it.

Base coat is the layer that speaks directly to your natural nail. Its mission: create mechanical and chemical adhesion on the prepared nail plate. A poorly applied base coat means the entire manicure fails.

Application Technique

Load the brush lightly — less gel than you think. First place a thin touch at the center of the nail, then spread toward the edges, keeping at least 0.5 mm away from skin and cuticles. Finish with the free edge: brush over the edge of the nail to seal the edge. This gesture, forgotten by 70% of beginners, doubles the wear time.

Ideal Thickness

Base coat should be thin and translucent — almost invisible. If you see ripples or buildup, it's too thick. Remove with a clean wipe and start over.

How do you know if the base coat is properly cured?

After curing under LumiCore™ (90s Base mode), the surface should be slightly tacky. This is normal — this inhibition layer will allow the color to adhere perfectly. Do not attempt to wipe it off.

Color is the most visible layer but not the most technical. The most common mistake: applying too much in a single coat to "cover in one go". Result: thick layer, incomplete polymerization, wrinkling.

The Thin Layer Rule

Always two thin layers rather than one thick layer. A thin layer allows UV/LED light to pass through to the base. A thick layer creates a barrier — the monomers at the bottom remain unpolymerized.

Brush Direction

Start at the center of the nail 1 mm from the cuticles, pull toward the free edge. Repeat on the left, then the right. Finish with a light stroke along the cuticles. Do not touch the cuticles — if you go over the edge, correct immediately with a fine cuticle pusher before curing.

Problem Colors

• Red: 3 thin layers rather than 2, 120s mode per layer. Red pigments strongly absorb UV.
• White: 3 layers minimum. Add a first white base layer if your white is semi-translucent.
• Black: 2 layers are sufficient but 120s mode is required. Black absorbs the entire light spectrum.
• Yellow and neon: White base layer before application — neons are transparent on the natural nail.

The top coat is the finishing layer that seals and protects everything beneath it. It also defines the final look: glossy, matte, satin, or plump gel effect. Don't overlook it — it's what holds everything together.

Classic top coat vs no-wipe

The classic top coat leaves an inhibition layer on the surface (tacky). You must wipe it with a cleanser or isopropanol-soaked lint-free wipe after curing. Delivers a deep shine.

The no-wipe top coat is formulated without an inhibition layer — direct "dry" curing. Faster, less glossy but sufficient for most applications.

The key technique: seal the edges

Just as with the base coat, always finish by brushing the applicator over the free edge rim. This sealing prevents water, detergents, and impacts from seeping between the layers at the nail tip — the primary cause of lifting.

Why does top coat wrinkle?

When top coat creases or wrinkles after curing, it's almost always one of these reasons: layer too thick, color layer beneath incompletely cured, or the nail positioned too far from the LED diodes. Always keep your hand flat, palm down, with the nail 2–3 cm maximum from the diodes.

Cat Eye

Cat eye contains magnetic particles. Apply a coat of cat eye color, and before curing, pass the provided magnet 2–3 mm above the surface in slow movements (5 seconds in your desired direction). The effect sets during curing. 60s mode. If the effect disappears after curing, you waited too long before using the magnet.

Chrome Powder / Mirror Effect

Chrome powder is applied over a no-wipe top coat that has not yet been cured (or over a still-tacky layer). Buff with a silicone or foam rubber applicator until you achieve the mirror finish. Then apply a sealing top coat and cure. Without this seal, the powder will come off within days.

Glitters

Apply over a cured base. For dense glitters, use dabbing motions (not dragging) with the brush. Always encapsulate with 2 coats of top coat — unencapsulated glitters catch on clothing and create lifting starting points.

Builder Gel / BIAB

Builder gel (or Builder In A Bottle) is thicker than standard colors. Apply in an apex shape (dome at the center of the nail) for sturdy structure. 120s mode is mandatory. The final "pinch" (gently pinching the nail in the lamp during the last 30 seconds) enhances the C-curve of the nail.

The time indicated on a gel bottle is a recommendation based on a reference lamp in the laboratory. In reality, several factors modify this timing.

Variables that slow down polymerization

• Thick layer: photons don't reach the base of the gel. Always apply in thin layers.
• Hand-to-lamp distance: beyond 4–5 cm, irradiance drops drastically. Keep the nail close to the diodes.
• Cold temperature: below 18°C, chemical reactions slow down. Warm your hands slightly if your room is cold.
• Dense pigmentation: dark pigments absorb photons before they reach photo-initiators. Increase curing time.
• Aged gel: photo-initiators degrade over time and with exposure to ambient light. Always close your bottles between applications.

Signs of incomplete polymerization

• Surface still tacky after cleansing with cleanser
• Strong residual odor after catalysis
• Gel that indents (creases) under light pressure
• Lifting from day 2 with no apparent mechanical cause

LumiCore™ creates the conditions for professional-grade wear. These daily habits maintain it.

The first 24 hours

• Avoid prolonged contact with hot water (bathing, dishwashing without gloves)
• No harsh detergents without gloves
• Avoid sharp impacts to the free edge
• Apply cuticle oil the evening of application

Weekly maintenance routine

Apply cuticle oil morning and evening over the entire perionychial area. A hydrated cuticle doesn't "pull" on the base coat and prevents lifting at the regrowth line. This is the most underestimated gesture in gel maintenance.

Repairing a broken free edge

If a free edge chips, don't pull on the gel — you risk removing a layer of nail plate. Gently file the damaged area with a fine grit, apply a micro-layer of top coat to the area, and cure. This repair typically lasts until your next full application.

What damages wear prematurely

• Opening boxes or scraping surfaces with the nail tip
• Household cleaners without gloves (acid, bleach)
• Acetone without precaution (strips the top coat)
• Dry cuticles that pull on the base coat as regrowth occurs

Cleaning the Plate

After each use, wipe the inside of the plate with a cloth lightly dampened with isopropanol (70°). Gel that builds up on the walls and diodes can create optical interference over time and reduce effective power. Do not use water or harsh chemicals.

Diode Lifespan

The 36 LED/UV diodes in LumiCore™ have an estimated lifespan of 50,000 hours of use — roughly 30 years at one application per week. They require no replacement under normal use.

7,800 mAh Battery

To maximize lithium battery longevity: do not let it fully discharge before recharging (ideally recharge between 20 and 80 %). Avoid keeping it at full charge constantly. If you don't use LumiCore™ for more than a month, store it at 50 % charge.

Storage

Keep away from direct sunlight and excessive heat (above 40°C, the battery degrades). A drawer or closed box is ideal. Keep LumiCore™ in its transport packaging if you move it regularly.

Damaged nails after gel application isn't the gel's fault — it's almost always the removal process. Proper removal takes 20 minutes. Rush it, and you'll lose layers of nail plate.

Problem	Probable Cause	Solution
Bubbles in gel	Application too fast, gel shaken before application	Never shake bottles. Apply with gentle dabbing motions, not stretching strokes
Peeling at edges within 48 hours	Unsealed edges, gel on skin	Systematically seal the free edge. Correct overflow before curing
Wrinkled top coat	Layer too thick, incomplete base coat	Apply thinner layer, verify color polymerization before applying top coat
Gel tacky after curing	Under-polymerization, lamp too far away	Extend cure time, bring hand closer, verify diodes are functioning
Color becomes opaque after 2 weeks	Worn top coat, micro-scratches	Apply a "refresher" top coat layer — cure 30s, extends wear by 1 week
Lifting (edge lifting up)	Gel in contact with skin, insufficient prep	Redo prep. Push back cuticles more carefully. Use a primer
Burning sensation under lamp	Layer too thick (polymerization heat), sensitive skin	Apply thinner layers. Remove hand for 2 seconds if burning, replace immediately. LumiCore™ SmartHeat™ minimizes this effect
Gel peeling off in one piece	Nail bed too smooth, no buffing, no primer	Redo buffing, add acid-free primer
Uneven thickness on nail	Too much gel on one side, brush poorly positioned	Work section by section with flat brush: center, left, right
Color overflow onto skin	Brush overloaded	Correct immediately with fine cuticle stick before curing. After curing: impossible to correct cleanly
Chrome powder flaking off	No top coat seal applied after powder	Always encapsulate powder with top coat + cure
Cat eye effect not working	Too much time between application and magnet	Pass magnet within first 5 seconds after application, before any curing
Brittle nails after removal	Overly aggressive removal, forced scraping	Respect the 20-minute acetone soak. Nourish with oil + keratin for several days
Strong odor during application	Poor room ventilation, low-quality gel	Open a window. Check product expiration dates
Gel yellowing	Prolonged sun exposure, non-UV-protective top coat	Use UV-protective top coat. Avoid direct sun exposure without gloves or sunscreen
Free edge crumbling	Unsealed free edge, repeated impacts	Seal edge with each layer. Avoid using nails as a tool
Dull result, no shine	Insufficient top coat or wiped before polymerization	Add a second top coat layer. For no-wipe top coat, no wiping needed
Gel sticking to LumiCore™ walls	Unstable hand during curing	Rest your elbow on the table for stability. Clean walls with isopropanol afterward
Diodes seem less powerful	Gel deposit on diodes	Clean gently with isopropanol on cotton, on each diode. Contact SOLAYA if problem persists
Application holds less in winter	Drier skin, lower temperature	Hydrate cuticles more, slightly warm hands before application, slightly increase cure times

Well-cared-for hands showcase the most beautiful manicure. And hydrated cuticle skin is the best defense against premature lifting.

Cuticle oil — your secret weapon

Apply morning and evening to cuticles and the skin surrounding the nail. Massage in small circles to enhance absorption. Oils based on jojoba or argan are ideal — they won't soften gel while deeply nourishing. Avoid heavy mineral oils that can cause base coat lifting at the cuticle line.

Daily hand cream

A light, non-greasy cream (gel or emulsion) morning and evening. Avoid very occlusive creams (pure shea butter, foot creams) directly on nails — they form a film that can reduce adhesion if a manicure is planned within 24 hours.

Sun protection

Sun degrades gel colors (yellowing) and ages hand skin faster than facial skin. SPF 30+ on the back of the hands is a habit to adopt starting in spring. Some top coats incorporate UV filters — check the product details.

Between manicures: the regenerating treatment

Give natural nails 1 to 2 weeks of rest every 2 or 3 months. During this break: apply a keratin-fortifying treatment, massage with castor oil (strengthens the nail), and hydrate intensely. You'll notice better adhesion and more resilient nails for your next manicure.

Stamping

Apply gel color to the stamping pad, transfer the design onto the nail, then seal with top coat + cure. Use special stamping gels (highly pigmented). Cure the base color layer before stamping. 60s mode for the final top coat.

Watercolor / Ink Effect

Dilute a gel color with a small amount of thinner or isopropanol to achieve a watercolor consistency. Apply over a no-wipe base that is still tacky and spread with a fine brush. The diffuse effect sets during curing. Seal immediately with top coat.

Foil / Foil Paper

Apply foil glue (or a tacky uncured top coat) and let dry for 30–60 seconds until translucent. Apply the foil with the metallic side facing the nail, press and pull off in one swift motion. Seal with 2 coats of top coat + 120s cure for a long-lasting result.

Gradient / Ombré

Apply two colors side by side on a makeup sponge and dab onto the nail. Clean the edges with cleanser, then top coat + cure. Alternatively, blend the two colors directly on the nail with a brush or cuticle stick before curing.

3D Nail Art (Acrylic Gel)

Form small sculptures (flowers, drops) with thick builder gel and a modeling brush. Cure each element separately. Fix onto the finished nail with a drop of builder gel or top coat. 120s mode for each element.

Week 1 — Application Day

Weeks 2 & 3 — Maintenance

• Cuticle oil morning and evening, every day
• Daily hand cream
• Visually inspect free edges — if a corner lifts, repair immediately with a drop of top coat
• Avoid prolonged contact with very hot water without gloves

Week 4 — Removal & Recovery

• Complete removal following Chapter 13 protocol
• Intensive care: castor oil on nail bed + cotton gloves for 30 min
• If nails are in good health: new application possible the next day
• If fragility: 48–72h rest with keratin fortifier before new application

Every 3 months — Regenerating Break

Allow 7 to 14 days without gel. Apply a fortifying treatment during this break. Nails regain thickness, and adhesion improves significantly at your next application.

Can I use gels from other brands with LumiCore™?

Yes. Since LumiCore™ is dual UV/LED 365–405 nm, it's compatible with all UV/LED gels on the market. Simply adjust the curing time based on gel type (see Chapter 5) and the gel brand's recommendations.

My gel is still tacky after curing — is this normal?

The inhibition layer (tacky) on certain formulas is normal and intentional — it serves as an anchor for the next layer. However, if the entire gel thickness remains soft and not "dry" to the touch, that's under-polymerization. Place it back under the lamp for an additional 60 seconds.

Are UV/LED gels dangerous to health?

Properly polymerized gels are safe. The risk comes from unpolymerized monomers (poor polymerization). To minimize exposure: ensure good ventilation, don't warm gel with your hands, replace expired gels. If you're pregnant, consult your doctor before using any chemical products.

Can I apply gel to bitten nails?

Yes, with some adjustments. Use a thick rubber base to recreate a bit of free edge. Avoid overly long applications that strain the nail bed. Gel application can help stop nail biting — gel being more resistant to the impulse.

Can the lamp damage my eyes?

Direct and prolonged UV exposure is not recommended for eyes. In normal use (a few minutes of application), the risk is very low. If you're sensitive, wear UV-protective glasses or look away during curing cycles.

Does LumiCore™ work with semi-permanent gels?

"Semi-permanent" is a UV/LED gel like any other — different from regular polish by its formula, not by its technology. LumiCore™ is fully compatible.

My gel is yellowing over time — why?

Yellowing comes from exposure to solar UV (not from the gel lamp). Some top coat formulas naturally yellow. Solutions: UV-blocking top coat, avoid direct sun exposure, use sunscreen on your hands.

Can I charge LumiCore™ while doing manicures?

Yes, the USB-C port allows simultaneous use and charging. For long salon sessions or on-the-go use, this is the recommended setup.

How often should I do my nails?

Every 3 to 4 weeks for optimal wear. Beyond 4 weeks, visible regrowth and moisture buildup under the regrowth increase the risk of lifting. Less than 3 weeks, and your nails don't have enough recovery time between applications.

How do I adapt application for very short nails?

Use a thick rubber base to create an apex and structure the free edge. Sealing the edges is even more critical on short nails (less surface area for support). Choose neutral or light colors — they forgive minor unavoidable spillovers better.

How do I clean my gel brushes between uses?

Wipe the brush immediately on a cleanser or isopropanol-saturated wipe after each coat. Never soak a brush in acetone — it dries out and breaks the bristles in a few weeks. For deep cleaning, gently massage the brush in circular motions on a cleanser wipe. Store flat, never tip-down, and away from light.

What's the real difference between semi-permanent and builder gel?

Semi-permanent gel is a fluid formula, flexible after polymerization, applied in thin layers on natural nails. It soaks off in acetone in 15–20 minutes. Builder gel (or BIAB) is a thick formula, rigid after polymerization, that allows you to lengthen, thicken, or rebuild a broken nail. LumiCore™ is compatible with both — only the curing time differs (60s for semi-perm, 120s for builder).

Can UV/LED gels trigger allergies?

Yes — unpolymerized monomers (particularly HEMA) are the main allergens. Risk increases with: incomplete polymerization, gel in repeated contact with skin, and cuticles not pushed back, allowing gel to touch lateral skin. To minimize this risk: ensure complete polymerization every time, correct any overflow immediately before curing, and ventilate the room. If you experience persistent redness or itching after application, consult a dermatologist before continuing.

How long does a bottle of gel last?

With normal use (one full manicure per week, ten nails), expect 12 to 18 months per 10 ml color bottle. Bottles keep for up to 24 months when tightly sealed, away from light and heat. A gel that has changed texture — too thick, grainy, or separated into two phases — is expired. Don't try to thin it: replace it. The degradation of photo-initiators makes it ineffective for polymerization anyway.

Can I apply gel over capsules or artificial nails?

Yes. Nail prep remains identical on the natural part. On the capsule (plastic or ABS resin), use a 100-grit buffer to create mechanical grip, then apply base coat directly. Some capsules require a specific "acid-free for synthetic surfaces" primer. Avoid prolonged soaking (baths, dishwashing) without gloves — gel can peel from the capsule before peeling from the natural nail.

Must I use SOLAYA brand products exclusively?

No. LumiCore™ is a universal tool compatible with all UV/LED gels on the market — professional brands, retail, online purchases. Adjust curing times based on gel type (see Chapter 5) and manufacturer guidelines. For best results, avoid very cheap gels with no composition information: their free monomer rate can be high.

Is LumiCore™ suitable for professional salon use?

Absolutely. The 7,800 mAh battery delivers over 50 complete manicures on a single charge. The USB-C port allows simultaneous use while charging for full days without interruption. Universal compatibility with all market gels makes it a versatile, portable work tool — lighter and quieter than most fixed salon lamps.

I'm pregnant — can I continue using UV gels?

We cannot replace your doctor's advice on this topic. What we know: LumiCore™ UV rays remain localized to the nail area with minimal dispersion. The main risk remains monomer vapors in confined spaces. Reasonable precautions: ensure good ventilation, wear thin nitrile gloves if you do repeated applications, and discuss with your doctor or midwife. Many professionals continue during pregnancy with these precautions, but the choice is entirely yours.

Print this page or keep it accessible during your first applications. It summarizes the essentials of this guide at a glance.

You have everything you need. Mastery comes with practice, and this guide will be here at every step. Welcome to the Studio.

SOLAYA™ exclusive guide · Do not share · 2026